The definitive history of Surakarta has yet to be written, but it would certainly contain a colorful cast of characters. Besides Javanese, Chinese, Arabs and Indians, there were Dutch administrators and Theosophists, the occasional Turk or American—even a former Prussian mercenary employed in the palace to oversee the janitorial staff.

Of the Pakubuwana rulers, the Solonese recall Pakubuwana X (r. 1893-1939) with special reverence. The initials “PB X” can still be seen around the city on ornamental archways and on the stained-glass tower in front of the palace Pagelaran. Like his predecessors, Pakubuwana X commanded no real army, and did not even have a free hand in appointing his own patih (prime minister). Yet he was tremendously popular, and nettled the Dutch through a series of royal progresses in which he was lionized by his people as if he were in fact the island’s true ruler.

Pakubuwana X is remembered today not so much for the many buildings, schools, mosques and hospitals that were established during his long reign, but for the great mystical power he is said to have possessed. His speech was putatively mandi—magically potent; a word of displeasure from him, it is said, could kill instantly. He is also the last ruler of Surakarta to have lived in true royal splendor. In 1930 there were 5,000 attendants at his court, including wives, children, concubines and servants.

The expense of maintaining this household and of staging the spectacular ceremonies required by the traditional calendar was a source of constant irritation to the Dutch. When Pakubuwana X died in 1939, the government deprived his son and successor of the last vestiges of autonomy, and cut the palace budget by 50 percent.

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